Girl-Bonding Trip To Nagaland's Hornbill Festival

While Nagaland might not be top of the list for female travellers (for no other reason but lack of awareness about the beautiful state), somehow I along with my closest friends have ended there twice. First was to Dimapur about 6-7 years ago and this time was to Kohima to attend the Hornbill Festival 2023.  We were three close friends who set out to explore the enchanting land of Nagaland during the vibrant Hornbill Festival. The Hornbill Festival, held annually in Nagaland, India, is a ten-day extravaganza that showcases the rich tapestry of Naga culture. From December 1st to 10th, 2023, the festival transformed Kohima, the capital of Nagaland, into a kaleidoscope of color, music, and dance. 
This year's theme, "Celebrating 20 Years of Hornbill Festival," marked two decades of this vibrant event that has become a cornerstone of Naga identity. The festival is not just about entertainment; it's a platform to preserve and promote Naga traditions, customs, and heritage for future generations.
We landed in Kohima to a very rainy morning and the forecast predicted rains for next few days. Although despite the rain, the festival grounds at Kisama buzzed with activity throughout the ten days. Dancers braved the rain and muddy arena to perform traditional sets and audience stood in rain to listen to their favourite bands perform. In fact, every corner offered a unique experience, from witnessing traditional Naga morungs (warrior dormitories) to indulging in local delicacies like smoked pork and bamboo shoot curry.
One of my favourite moment was when I sipped the freshly brewed americano in the Nagaland coffee cafe. I was taken aback by the full bodied flavours and wondered why I never heard of Nagaland as a coffee producing state. In my opinion the coffee that I had in Nagaland (grown and processed in the state itself) was one of the best in India. 
Visitors were mesmerized by the vibrant attire of the Naga tribes. Each tribe has its own distinct headdress, jewelry, and clothing, adorned with beads, feathers, and animal horns. The air resonated with the pulsating beats of Naga drums and the soulful melodies of folk songs. Traditional Naga dances, folk songs, and indigenous games filled the air with a contagious energy. Each Naga tribe, with its distinctive attire and customs, showcased its unique identity, turning the festival grounds into a living museum of Naga heritage.Each tribe had its own designated area where they had created replicas of their morungs. These morungs are modelled on the real ones that you can see in the villages. Morung is a traditional dormitory for unmarried men. It's much more than just a place to sleep, though. It's a central hub for the social, cultural, and educational life of the Naga community. Young boys learn about Naga customs, traditions, and beliefs from elders through oral storytelling and practical lessons. Traditionally, the Morung's strategic location on the village outskirts served as a watchtower and defense point against enemy attacks.
Young men received training in warfare and martial arts to protect the village.
Sadly, the Morung's role has diminished in recent times due to modernization and the influence of formal education systems. However, efforts are being made to revive the Morung and preserve its cultural significance & that effort can be seen clearly at the Hornbill festival. After walking around the morungs to soak in the Naga culture and sipping multiple cups of great coffee, every evening ended with a dose of great music. The evening events featured renowned artists from across the globe, blending local Naga music with contemporary sounds.
The Hornbill Festival is more than just a ten-day event; it's a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of Naga culture. If you're looking for a cultural experience unlike any other, the Hornbill Festival is an event not to be missed. But we were looking for a little bit more than just an exhibition of Naga culture and to get a more immersive experience and to delve deeper, we ventured into the nearby villages, away from the festival bustle. Here, amidst the rolling hills and terraced fields, we experienced the authentic rhythm of Naga life at the Khonoma green village. But that requires a whole different blog post. I will share that in a few days.